The narrow entrance to the bay is between two rugged limestone headlands and these are part of a long line of high ground and islands which runs roughly north - south. On the eastern side of this ridge is, from north to south, drained farmland, sand dunes, salt marsh, brackish water lagoon and Navarino Bay.
 

The lagoon is caused by currents in Navarino Bay transporting sediment along the coast and forming a sand spit from Gialova to the Palaiokastro island, cutting off part of the bay to form the Osmanaga lagoon. It was probably at this time that sand transported into Voidikilia Bay (Bouphras Bay on the map), was laid down and began to form the magnificent beach and sand dunes

Historically, the area is extremely interesting. King Nestor’s palace is nearby, his cave is just below the Palaiokastro and his triremes may well have set off for the Trojan war from Voidikilia Bay.

Navarino Bay is the site of two battles. In 425BC, during the Peloponnesian War, the Athenians defeated the Spartans in a “commando” raid on Sphacteria Island, and in 1827 a combined British, French and Russian fleet defeated a Turkish - Egyptian fleet to end Turkish rule and ensure the independence of Greece. The British Admiral was Codrington and his name lives on in several streets in Bristol.

The Palaiokastro was founded by the Franks in the 12th century who ruled the area till the Turks came in 1452. It is a stiff, and very sweaty, walk from the beach, past Nestor's Cave to the ramparts of the Kastro.

Obviously people have been around the area for a long time and have had an effect on the environment. It is possible that King Nestor diverted the Amoudheri River. This would have reduced flooding in the plain at the head of the bay. And over the millennia there has been drainage of the salt marshes. In 1950 there was 7½ square kilometres of salt marsh, nowadays it is 2½ km².

In the 1970’s there was an attempt to make Navarino Bay, the best anchorage in Greece, a major centre for oil refining. But pressure from international conservation bodies, and the demise of the “Colonels” put paid to the scheme. It did, however, leave some very ugly buildings around Gialova

For the area is extremely important for its ecology and wildlife. Many bird species use it as a stopover in migration routes and there are many exotic natives. The plant life, especially in the sand dunes, is beautiful, fragrant and vulnerable. (And extremely spiky!). Turtles lay there eggs nearby. Fish use the marshes for breeding.

Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of the wildlife is the presence of chameleons. Recently it became known that they were of the African species and people have been at a loss to explain how they came to the Peloponnese. The explanation which seems to be most popular at the moment is that they are derived from pets which escaped from Roman villas!

As far as is possible in Greece, the Voidikilia area is protected. You are discouraged from entering the sensitive areas, except when escorted. There is only one way in to the beach and you are not encouraged to leave the shore. The environmentalists would much rather no one used the beach but it is such an attractive place that it would be impossible to keep people out. And most people seem to stick to the beach without going into the marshes.

But well worth visiting, even without Jane Austen.